They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. It also included two Austrians (cartographers Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans ( Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). Climbing Īn early attempt on Lhotse was made by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. Though Lhotse Main is considered to be an intermediately difficult eight-thousander when ascended from the standard Reiss Couloir route, its secondary summits and extremely steep South Face are regarded as some of the most difficult and dangerous climbs in the world. The main ridge of the mountain features four distinct summits: Lhotse Main at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, Lhotse Middle (also known as Lhotse Central I or Lhotse East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), Lhotse Central II at 8,372 m (27,467 ft) and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). Lhotse's Western Face, recessed behind the head of the Khumbu Glacier in the Western Cwm, plays an integral part in the standard routes of ascent for both peaks the name Lhotse, which means "South Peak" in Tibetan, further emphasizes the close relationship between the two. Despite the tremendous vertical relief of its South and Northeast Faces, it is the least prominent of the eight-thousanders due to the great height of the South Col between it and Everest. With Everest to the north and Nuptse to the west, Lhotse forms the apex of the massive horseshoe-shaped arc of the Everest massif. The main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal. Lhotse ( Nepali: ल्होत्से L'hōtsē Nepali pronunciation: Tibetan: ལྷོ་རྩེ Tibetan pronunciation:, lho tse, Chinese: 洛子峰) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. (First winter ascent 31 December 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki)
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